Wednesday, July 16, 2008

A bit of cheap...



Whilst luxury brands are buoyant and many people are fast realising that cheapie Primark frocks have their consequences and are moving into a slower and more expensive way of buying into fashion, on the flipside, there seems to be a 'tendance' for the cheap and a bit of tackiness. I don't mean dresses constructed out of Tesco bags or such ironic 'cheap' statements but I'm talking about things like polyester getting a new lease of life, exemplified by the 100% Italian polyester dresses seen at Lanvin SS08 or the lux-tackiness expounded by Balmain's AW08 collection (I suspect there is one Christophe Decarnin-obsessed stylist dressing the whole world in Balmain but I'm not complaining...).

It's always a hint though, a subtle nod towards tackiness that doesn't veer right into universal bad taste. When I see Bjork & McElligott's AW08 collection modelled by Ben Grimes (no comments about her 'bigger' size please because I think she's a beaut....), I see that lux-tack vibe coming through. If I'm honest, some of the clothes do remind me a little of this shop called 'Selene' on my local high street back in North Finchley when I was a teen and I'd see orange lace shirts and black lurex dresses ahoy. I don't mean that in a derogatory way though because the great thing about lux-tack is that just as you think it's a little bit 'cheap' looking, you touch the fabrics and see the construction and realise that it's not. There's a certain accessibility about 'lux-tack' that is way less overwhelming than full on lux-lux. It's that awkward/sexy thing that I'm always attracted to, which springs out to me when looking at the collection...



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Susan Marie Designs Jewelry



Fine Jewelry Designer and Goldsmith

The timeless elegance of the finest handcrafted gold, precious gemstone and pearl jewelry awaits you at Susan Marie Phipps' website. A professional goldsmith for twenty-four years, Susan is also a GIA graduate gemologist, using her expertise to select only the most vibrant Diamonds, Tahitian Pearls, fancy colored Sapphire, Tanzanite, and other gemstones for use in her work.



handcrafted gemstone necklace

14k Gold & Multicolor Sapphire Pendant

1.38 carats Sapphire

3 mm Japanese Cultured Pearl

18" 14k Yellow Gold 10-strand cable necklace



Susan Phipps began making jewelry while attending a high school class on the subject, in her hometown of Findlay, Ohio. During that period, she received several awards, including a Gold Key Scholastic Award for jewelry in 1979 and 1980. She furthered her study of metalsmithing at Penland School of Crafts in North Carolina, and later at the University of South Carolina.



designer gold and gemstone earrings

14k Gold & Spessarite Garnet Earrings

3.09 carats Spessarite Garnet

.10 carats Diamond

14k Yellow Gold



Susan Phipps' professional career began in 1981, when she was employed as a goldsmith, and she continued working for various employers until 1993, when she began her own business. In August 1992, she completed the Gemological Institute of America's program and earned a Graduate Gemologist Degree.



handcrafted gold ring

18k Gold & Chrome Tourmaline Ring

1.23 carats Medicine Wheel-cut Chrome Tourmaline

Cut by award winning stone cutter Larry Woods

18k Yellow Gold

Platinum crown



Artist Statement

My experience as a goldsmith enables me to design jewelry that is functional and substantial enough that customers will not have durability problems. To me, this is a basic and fundamental consideration in designing fine jewelry.



As a graduate gemologist, I am aware of the broad spectrum of colored stones available beyond emeralds, blue sapphires and rubies. I always enjoy sharing my enthusiasm for colored stones with others, exciting people with the endless possibilities which exist for coordination of colored gemstone jewelry with fashion.



To this end, I carefully hand-select gemstones of all colors for use in my work. In choosing gemstones, I pay special attention to the quality of the cut and the maximum beauty it has to offer. In addition, I seek stones of exceptional clarity and vibrant color, always with an eye for overall quality and value.



As an artist, I have always been drawn to forms which are graceful and elegant, without being overly complex. I want my designs to enhance and amplify, never crowd or compete with the inherent beauty of the precious material of which they are composed. As I evolve, I will continue to draw on these basic principles of sound design in order to create classical styles that will endure through the seasons of fashion.


AWARDS AND COMPETITIONS

2001 American Gem Trade Association's Spectrum Award

1998 26th International Pearl Design Competition

1995 De Beers Diamonds Today Award

1993 21st International Pearl Design Competition

1993 American Vision Award

See full article
.





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Jewelry Career Resources - 08 August 2006


Jewelry That Rocks - 28 July 2007


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Susan Barth Jewelry - 27 June 2008













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Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Robin Phillips Jewelry



Handmade Cloisonné and Champlevé Enamel Jewelry

Robin Phillips has a passion for designing and creating handmade enamel jewelry, as well as gold and silver jewelry. One of Robin's specialties is Cloisonné enamel and silver jewelry. Cloisonné is an enameling technique, in which the colored areas are separated by thin wires of either pure gold or fine silver. The wires also create a design within the piece of jewelry.



handcrafted jewelry pendant

'Lily' Cloisonné & Champlevé Enamel Brooch/Pendant

This piece shimmers with depth of color. It comes with a handmade finding that slips over the pin so the piece can be worn as either a brooch or a pendant.

$950 AUD



Cloisonné and Champlevé Enamel

The term Cloisonné is derived from the French cloison, meaning partitioned cell. Champlevé refers to a technique where a recess is made in the silver either by incising, etching, or making a framework that is soldered onto a fine silver plate. In this process, thin metal wires of either fine silver or gold are first laid down to separate the enamels from one another. Wet enamels (finely ground glass and lead) are painted onto the plate of fine silver using the cloisons as dividers.



After the first layer of color is applied, the piece is ready to be kiln-fired at somewhere between 760 - 850 degrees Celsius. The enamels continue to be built up and fired repeatedly until the colors become vibrant, and there is a feeling of depth to the piece (each piece may be fired over twenty times).



Using a series of diamond files, the piece is then gently filed (from coarse to very fine) to remove any excess enamel and to reveal the cloisons. Then a series of diamond papers, up to 12,000 grit, is used. The piece is then cleaned with a glass brush, allowed to dry and placed near the kiln to warm up for its final firing.



enamel jewelry technique

'Tulip' Cloisonné Enamel Brooch/Pendant

The colors in this piece are vibrant! This piece is hand-engraved and set in Sterling Silver with 18k Gold 'bubbles'. It comes with a handmade finding that slips over the pin so the piece can be worn as either a brooch or a pendant.

$1100 AUD



Robin's handcrafted Cloisonné jewelry, and particularly her pendants, are vibrant with color and imagery. Much of her inspiration comes from natural imagery such as landscapes, light, movement, organic shapes, and often a specific theme or a certain gemstone. Her fine enamel gold and silver jewelry is available at high quality craft and jewelry stores, and select craft shows.



designer silver brooch

'Splash' Cloisonné & Champlevé Enamel Brooch

This little brooch was inspired by the ocean at dusk.

Materials: Fine silver and vitreous enamels.

$695 AUD



Robin Phillips received her Bachelor of Fine Arts degree, majoring in pottery, in America in 1973. She then worked for a number of years making pottery, and as a pottery teacher. Moving to Sydney influenced Robin's decision to study the art of jewelry design and jewelry making under a master jeweler. Her desire was to design and create original enamel gold and silver jewelry using her own individual style and skills.



Robin's fine handmade jewelry is created predominately from gold and silver, and consists of a collection of one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces. Her clients have commented that the pieces they own will become family heirlooms, handed down from generation to generation.



Women have been wearing fine jewelry for personal adornment for centuries. Robin believes that women who love jewelry want it to be well designed and finely made, whether it is gold or silver jewelry, diamonds or pearls, emeralds, opals, or Cloisonné.



Artist Statement

I received my Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in the USA in 1973 majoring in pottery, and worked as a production potter and pottery teacher in the US for some years. After moving to Sydney, I studied under a master jeweler and made the transition to jewelry design and making.



Color, texture and three-dimensional form were what initially drew me to work with clay and it is these same qualities that translate so well to metal. Although these mediums have inherent differences, both lend themselves to fluidity of form.



Both can be colored, either by glazing for pottery, or enameling or introducing heat to color precious metals. Both are very tactile materials lending themselves to a variety of finishes such as texturing, burnishing, high gloss, or a subtle satin.



Natural imagery such as landscapes, light, movement, organic shapes and simplicity of form continually inspire my work. I enjoy designing and creating my jewelry around a specific theme or stone, and often the stone dictates the direction the piece will take.



Using a combination of gold and silver adds depth and dimension, enhancing style, and simplicity. Living in Australia allows me access to exquisite opals and pearls which I love using in my jewelry.



Many of the pieces I make are one of a kind, and I am always changing my designs. I become bored making the same thing over and over, and I am always happy to take on commission work. I hope you enjoy looking at my work as much as I've enjoyed making it.


See full article
.





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Jewelry Career Resources - 08 August 2006


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Monday, July 14, 2008

Tribute to a real legend



Yves Saint Laurent died this past weekend, at 71 (read the NY Times Obituary). A long and renowned career, he was the last of the true great couturiers who put Paris on the map. Though he had retired several years ago, his company continued on and will insure that the YSL logo and the man behind it are not soon forgotten.











Mr Laurent's legacy is sure to live on in the designs produced by others but imbued with his creative spirit..hopefully, they will continue to do honor to his name.

Among the handbags sure to be remembered that have been featured here, and in no particular order...

Tribute Tote


Uptown


Downtown


Vincennes Hobo


Muse


Muse II


The Bow Bag


Downtown Trolley

The fashion world has lost a larger than life legend with the passing of Yves Saint Laurent, but what a truly remarkable career and life he has left to be remembered by.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Prehnite: Misty and Romantic





Prehnite is one of those gemstones that no one has ever heard of until suddenly you start seeing it everywhere. Discovered in the 18th century in South Africa by a Colonel von Prehn, prehnite is usually a light green colour - a distinctive green not quite like any other although I have seen people confuse it with green tourmalinated quartz. It is also found in Namibia, Germany, Connecticut, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Virginia, India, Austria, and Canada as well as Scotland, Australia and France.
I like prehnite for its "misty" quality of green; some would say almost a milky quality although I disagree with that term. It does have black inclusions occasionally, but often these inclusions simply add to its beauty since the contrast with the pale green is quite beautiful. The prehnite bracelet above can be found on our Unique Gemstone Jewelry page, and the one below on the Unique Handmade Bracelets page. The prehnite bracelet above is simply two strands of prehnite blessed only with sterling silver for an accent, while the bracelet below also has the lovely lampwork beads of Suzette Celestin of Gaslite Lampwork. For those of you interested in the metaphysical aspects of gemstones, prehnite is best known for promoting lucid dreaming and is known as a protective gemstone with regenerative properties. It is also said to encourage energy flow through the body.
And here, because graduation is coming up, I've included a prayer box necklace with a difference: lampwork beads and genuine natural aquamarines. It's also loaded with sterling silver and would make a great graduation gift for a young girl who's special to you. Of course, the greatest part of the gift would probably be the prayer that you could write on a tiny piece of paper and put inside the prayer box so that it could accompany her on her journeys after graduation.